Courtney Munson wrote:
First of all, everyone is talking about how growing from seed could lead to finding a wonderful new variety that does well in your local conditions. Awesome, great, yes. So, then.... what next? It seems obvious you could take scionwood and then graft onto rootstock. But then that's just propagating the same system we want to get away from, right? Wouldn't it be better if you could just propagate the entire tree (fruiting top and roots)? This seems obvious to me yet I'm not seeing anyone discussing the mechanics of how this is done. How do you just propagate the tree itself? I read some about air layering. Is that what people are doing (or planning to do if they got a great new tree?) If the tree was young enough would you just dig it up and create a stool bed with it? Something less drastic I would hope?
Another question: from what I've read it seems like it's been "debunked" that apple trees just grow randomly from seed like Michael Pollan told me in his book all those years ago. Is that true? What I think I'm understanding from my recent reading is that if you get seeds from apples in your orchard where you have tasty varieties, and no crabapples, etc nearby, you're going to likely get crosses from those varieties, correct? And/or you could hand pollinate somehow and know exactly what you were crossing?
S Tonin wrote:Should I put off the beginning of my grafting project another year and let the tree focus on making roots on the air layered branches? Or can I do both at the same time, as long as I only do one or two grafts and one or two air layers?
How many air layers can I do on a relatively young, healthy tree? No grafts, just trying to maximize rootstock production. Even though the rootstock is old, the aboveground part is only 5 or 6 years old. Is there some kind of ratio of branches, like one air layer for every 10 branches, or is it a vibes thing?
Conversely, how many grafts can I do on one mature tree per year (no air layering)? If I do spring grafting, can I do bud grafting in the fall of the same year?
As you can tell, I'm kind of a grafting noob; I've only done it twice so far (peach to apricot, apricot to apricot), though like 80% of what I did took and is still healthy after a few years, so I think I have the basics down.
Hugo Morvan wrote:Hi Steve Thorn.
With the weather getting more eratic those late frosts seem to be a bigger problem every time. I never understood why we as gardeners have to put up with these early flowering varieties. If you're an orchard i understand you want to be the first, because you can charge top dollars. But we as amateurs should have late to extremely late flowering fruit trees. I'd love to eat peach from june to october. Instead of everything at once.
For apples i got some late flowering long keeping variety like court pendu gris(french). And i tried to get apples that are hanging around Christmas and get better after the frost, but i'm not yet super skilled with grafting, and took them too early so they died.... I've got two late cherries, but with peaches i have no info on it.
Any thoughts?
Suzette Thib wrote:My dad has talked about some delicious peach trees from his youth and finding this thread has me thinking we should put some pits in the ground sooner than later. Anyone have updates on their plantings?
Timothy Norton wrote:I'm planning on making a peach cobbler from local peaches. I didn't realize that just planting the pit in the ground after processing has a good germination rate.
Are peaches grown from seed similar to apples when it comes to the random chances of being a delicious peach or not? I wonder if there are alternative uses for less tasty fruit?